Won’t be picking up my heart in San Francisco

Today’s post brought to you by: passive highs

Grateful for: my ability to buy lunch for a homeless man outside Safeway … the look on his face

Trying hard to accept: Wholefoods hasn’t banned me yet

Wholefoods might be the biggest rip-off but if you know how to work it, it’s the best thing since $8.99 sliced bread.

Last wifi chance before very long and very dark trip back to San Francisco tonight.

Lemme see if I can show you my Wholefoods office. Here you go.

Much thought went into maximising the power of the filter and angle to minimise the chubbiness of my fat-fuelled cheeks.

They have: desks, wifi, power points, nice toilets, $2 free refill coffee, and best of all a very fine collection of good-looking, wealthy (married) men to smile at. Stop press!!!! What am I talking about? Best things are the free samples. See those 6 white cups. That was my 43-second zip round the deli to get free turkey and cranberry sandwiches and chocolate chip cookies.

Eugene’s been interesting.

Good bits:

  • How they care for less fortunate
  • Friendliness of every single person I’ve met
  • Cheap cost of living
  • Wholefoods
  • St Mary’s rector and baking
  • Public library

Bad bits:

  • You’d think that in a place where there’s more rain than joints they would clear the gutters. In a 100m walk you have to jump 6 puddles, tip toe through 4 piles of rotting leaves and negotiate your way across a road with blocked gutters on all four corners.
  • Dope – only the stupid would pay $5 for a joint – just walk round the Christmas markets twice and you’re flying higher than my current weight.
  • Hippies. All this dreadlocked, crystalled, tie-dyed, purple-haired thing is not really my cup of kombucha. Although, they do make all the good bits possible.

Imagine what it’s like inside

I think I might’ve mentioned in passing that it rains here. Which gave me an insight into homeliness.

So yesterday me and my home-packed lunch (ie, not near Wholefoods) sloshed our way into the city to have a gander round.

Well not much to see except vegan cafes (soy has no business messing with biscuit, gravy and sausage), tattoo shops, dope sellers galore and shops selling witchy and Dungeons and Dragons stuff.

They must get sick of tattooing ‘I hate the IRS’

In search for somewhere to make my sandwiches I Google-mapped myself off to public library.

What an eye-opener. There’s a cafe ($1 coffee – must be subsidised by city) in foyer where every table was occupied by homeless sheltering out of rain drinking cheap coffee and eating donated food.

And do you know what? For half an hour there I felt a bit like one of them. Cold, wet, nowhere else to go.

But like I said before, I am nothing like them. I have the one thing they must yearn for the most – contact with people.

Think I might have also mentioned before how much like Wellington Oregon is. Rammed home when perusing the shelves of the charity bookstore at the library (2 brand new paperbacks for $2. Brand new! 2! $2!)

A voice appeared from yonder: “Hi, you’re the woman on the bus yesterday!”

Blow me down with a crystal wind chime but there was Barbara, one of the super nice passengers who helped me find my Airbnb.

She was super interested in my trip so of course I was super interested in telling her all about it.

Then it was another very wet, puddle-dodging hike to the much-anticipated Christmas markets.

Silly me. This is Eugene, Oregon. Not Andersonville, Chicago.

My visions of Nordic felt Christmas decorations, free samples of stollen and mulled wine and beautifully scented wreaths were sorely smashed.

Instead I got: rainbows, tarot readers, crystals, everything you could possible spin out of wool and carve out of wood, more bloody vegan food, tied-died everything and barefooted kids called Arrow getting in my way.

There were more beards there than Snow White and the 777 dwarfs.

I dunno if this lot were high (except that 8 year-old?) but it was like watching mini Woodstock.

Continuing my churches of the US mission, I checked out St Mary’s Episcopalian this morning. Well they might be the Anglican’s cousins but I think there might be a few ‘twice removeds’ in there.

Nothing like any Anglican service I’ve ever been to (yes I have been to more than the odd Christmas service).

I almost felt the Pope’s presence with all the kneeling, crossing chests, and up and down and up and down …

No way I was going to receive communion (gluten-free option available), having to kneel. Couldn’t even stand and sit without the aid of the surrounding pews.

Don’t think the visitor from Indiana next to me was very impressed when I didn’t sing the very solemn hymns. I said a special prayer for her though, being from Indiana.

Funny thing was, there was this family of 7 wholesome looking kids in Wholefoods this morning (yes I have been here twice in one day).

In between watching HGTV I was watching them. Bet they’re on their way to church, I cleverly thought. Seven kids? Sure bet.

Because who should be sitting 3 rows behind me at St Mary’s.

Almost asked the rector if he was married. Talk about a good-looking, super charming man. I struck up conversation with him at the coffee hour afterwards (spicy German apple cake – yum, yum, yum) by asking why Anglicans are called Episcopalians here.

Then felt really dumb (but not enough to stop flirting with him) when he pointed out the obvious.

Also chatted to Margaret and Lilian – bless her. When I told Lilian I was from NZ she said “Oh! My neighbour is from Australia! Do you know her? Rachel Hyde. H-y-d-e.”

I smiled and said “Of course. We went to school together” and scarpered out the door before she could ask for my email.

The last post

Today’s post brought to you by: a bugle

Grateful for: everyone who’s cared for me and cared about me

Trying hard to accept: why so much food is chucked out when so many are hungry

Day is done
Gone the sun
From the lake
From the hills
From the sky
All is well
Safely rest
God is nigh

Well not quite. Still 27 hours to go but can’t imagine there’ll be free wifi anywhere within 49 flightpaths of LAX.

Which, worst case scenario, I will know every inch of after 10 veeeeerrrrryyyy loooonnnngggggg hours in transit tomorrow.

Never get me to book your flights.

Speaking of god, for someone who isn’t a believer, I’ve spent a lot of time in churches this trip.

Mainly because church is the one place you can go and immediately feel welcome and accepted.

And, besides the shower, is also the one place you can belt out a tune at the top of your lungs and nobody will ever tell you to shut up because your voice is worse than fingernails down a chalkboard.

To end the trip I’ve just been to daily mass at St Patrick’s on Mission St, with an aptly Spanish priest.

Imagine the heating bill

Any of you Catholics? Skip this bit.

The whole daily mass thing is odd. Everybody knew every word off by heart. Except me. Only bit I knew was the Lord’s Prayer.

So does that mean it’s the same service every day? Wouldn’t that lessen its impact?

Maybe because it was a huge church, and everybody sat far apart and it was the daily mass, but there was no warmth at all. I left during communion.

I learned something though. There are 2 versions of the annunciation. Matthew’s and Luke’s.

Oh, and there’s an Elizabeth in the Bible, never knew that. Must be a low-profile kinda gal.

San Francisco is a very sad city. I’ve been here 9 hours and the only times I’ve felt gleeful were:

  • Getting here – 15 hours on a packed, late train with babies at each end of the car who screamed all night. Screamed. All night. After twisting my body into 19 different combinations I finally settled on lying on back lengthways along dining car banquette seat with knees bent and feet flat on floor. Like a human ironing board.
  • Bus driver on Amtrak transit bus from Emeryville station to downtown San Francisco. He said the nicest things to me that I hiked off to the hostel with a big soppy grin on my face.
  • Christmas tree in Union Square.
  • Long, long hot shower and clean, clean clothes.
  • Real bed with mattress and sheets and pillows in hostel where the only babes are the Argentinian guys I flirted with in the kitchen.

Complete with flying saucer

Not to be outdone, Nordstrom dangled a few lights from the ceiling.

The rest of the time here I’ve been saddened by seeing homeless everywhere. And I mean everywhere.

As soon as you step away from the glitz and gold of Union Square, Bloomingdales, Saks, Nordstrom etc all you see are homeless people. Everywhere.

One block off the main drag, Market St, I saw the saddest thing yet. A long queue of homeless men on crutches etc waiting to get into soup kitchen; a medical van presumably to treat drug addicts; a homeless child with his little tricycle and a swathe of tacky wares for sale on sheets on the footpath.

San Francisco has one of the largest, if not the largest, homeless populations in the US. I probably saw more than most because I strayed from the tourist haunts.

Which brings me to one of the lasting impressions of my trip. Sure we all know the US is the land of extreme wealth and extreme poverty.

But I can’t understand why food servings are so gigantic. Fridges become clogged with leftovers boxes – the contents of which will end up in the bin – yet there are so many people going hungry.

The food wastage is gob-smacking. It’s not just the serving sizes. It’s the price of food. It’s so damn cheap that you think nothing of chucking half it out.

The inequity is just so sad.

The other thing I will remember from this trip is the people.

I’ve been so incredibly lucky to have met, spent time with, stayed with, talked with, been helped by and welcomed by so many kind people.

All the people who’ve driven me places, fed me, shown me places, given me gifts, had me to stay, killed time with me, invited me to stay, shared their stories with me, kept in contact with me from home, made me laugh and asked about my trip have been so wonderfully generous.

Even those who thought NZ was in Australia, thought NZ was in Holland or asked me if I spoke English have added something. Not sure what, but something.

NZ hits San Francisco. Wonder if they pay the rip-off prices we do. Oh, that reminds me, also saw a Mojo cafe in Chicago but didn’t take a pic because (a) hate Mojo – yes, hate is a strong word (b) was rushing to train station – for train that was 2 hours late. Sigh.

Hiked all the way up here to some massive cathedral above San Francisco and what should be starting in 10 minutes but Christmas carols! Yipppeee. Fine print: ticket-holders only. Like the grand old Duke of York (ewwww, creepy Prince Andrew) I marched down again.

Spot the difference in Wholefoods, Eugene.

Food and people aside, the one thing that sums up this whole trip has been how incredibly lucky I’ve been.

Serendipity has ridden alongside me every step of the way. I’ve landed on my feet more times than I’ve over-eaten.

Every sad, lonely, frustrating moment has been just that. A moment.

I’ve come out the other side smiling every time.

So, this is one very lucky and very grateful writer saying good-bye. And thank you for reading, following and commenting on my posts.

Writing the posts, and knowing you’ve been along for the ride has made this my best trip ever.

“And when the night is cloudy, there is still a light that shines on me, shine until tomorrow, let it be.”